A weekly commentary on selected wines tasted.
2008 Daniel Bouland Vieilles Vignes Morgon ($20). It’s a fine between a wine having the fresh acidity that pairs it so well with food and possessing a razor’s-edge sharpness that calls too much attention to its finish, and I think this wine pours over that line. I love the fruit, but not the finish. Pass.
2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis (about $15). This wine does not cross the acid line, even though it is fresh, quite tart, minerally and comes as close as Chardonnay will ever come to passing for Sauvignon Blanc in the finish. A touch of chalkiness helps balance the acid. Consider.
NV Mumm Napa Brut Rosé ($21). Why don’t I drink this wine more! Without much thought, I paired it with a creamy-inside, crusty-outside chevre soufflé, and the tangy, meaty, gamey, rich sparkler with its strawberry and grapefruit flavors went perfectly with the almost truffly elegance of the egg dish – a soufflé being as close as food can get to being Champagne. Buy.
2006 Billaud-Salmon “Vaudesir” Chablis Grand Cru ($110) OK, so this reminds me of a really good Sonoma Chardonnay – and that’s OK – with its round, juicy, rich varietal flavors of tropical fruits and tree-picked apricots. It does have more minerality than most Sonomans, but its 13.5 alcohol gives it the mouth-feel of a Californian. Very nice. Buy if you can afford it.
2008 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($13). Smooth and light, a very quaffable wine with mellow, strawberry-dominant fruit and a very long finish. Try.
2008 Daniel Bouland Vieilles Vignes Morgon ($20). It’s a fine between a wine having the fresh acidity that pairs it so well with food and possessing a razor’s-edge sharpness that calls too much attention to its finish, and I think this wine pours over that line. I love the fruit, but not the finish. Pass.
2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis (about $15). This wine does not cross the acid line, even though it is fresh, quite tart, minerally and comes as close as Chardonnay will ever come to passing for Sauvignon Blanc in the finish. A touch of chalkiness helps balance the acid. Consider.
NV Mumm Napa Brut Rosé ($21). Why don’t I drink this wine more! Without much thought, I paired it with a creamy-inside, crusty-outside chevre soufflé, and the tangy, meaty, gamey, rich sparkler with its strawberry and grapefruit flavors went perfectly with the almost truffly elegance of the egg dish – a soufflé being as close as food can get to being Champagne. Buy.
2006 Billaud-Salmon “Vaudesir” Chablis Grand Cru ($110) OK, so this reminds me of a really good Sonoma Chardonnay – and that’s OK – with its round, juicy, rich varietal flavors of tropical fruits and tree-picked apricots. It does have more minerality than most Sonomans, but its 13.5 alcohol gives it the mouth-feel of a Californian. Very nice. Buy if you can afford it.
2008 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($13). Smooth and light, a very quaffable wine with mellow, strawberry-dominant fruit and a very long finish. Try.
Until next time….
Roger Morris
Roger Morris
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